Things I Learned Today:

  • The best way to keep from getting ocean water in your lungs is to just go ahead and fill your mouth and sinuses with water. No more can get in, so as long as you don’t breathe in, you’re fine. This is very easy to do while you’re upside down underneath a crashing wave.
  • Even though I always plug my nose underwater, it turns out that when you’re underneath a crashing wave, and you’ve lost track of your board (which is heavier than you think, and made of fiberglass which is very hard when it comes in contact with your face with any momentum at all) it turns out that it’s really instinctive to get your forearms in front of your face while you tumble blindly, even if it means that you can’t plug your nose. This is good.
  • My body is totally shaped like an inverted ramp. So if I’m standing in waist deep water, a wave hits my belly, ramps up the underside of my breasts and splashes full-force directly into my eyes. Every time.
  • Catching one wave means doing approximately 30 pushups, one for each wave you don’t catch on your way out.
  • It’s totally worth it.